Ice maker not making ice? As with most home appliances, ice makers have a breaking point. It can be quite an inconvenience when an ice maker is not making ice, but there’s no need to jump to call a professional just yet. Try some techniques on your own and see if you can repair your ice maker with minimal costs.
Ice Maker Repair: Understanding Common Problems
Ice makers are not complicated technology, so if your ice maker stopped working it shouldn’t take too long to get it back up and running. There are a few common problems with ice makers, most often the case is that the ice cubes are not coming out of the ice machine at all. Below, some simple ice maker repair strategies are explained.
Initial Ice Maker Repair Strategies
If your ice maker is not making ice cubes, then the problem is typically due to a clog in the supply line where water has frozen.
1. Unplug the Refrigerator and Turn off the Water Line
To fix this, start by unplugging the refrigerator. Find the shut-off valve – it’s likely underneath the sink or directly behind the fridge. Turn the shut-off valve completely ‘off.’
2. Clear the Water Line
Once everything has been turned off or unplugged, you will need to warm the water line. The most efficient way to warm the water line would be to run some warm water over it. A turkey baster or other tool that allows for precision work best in warming up the water tube.
Another option, if you do not have access to warm water or a proper way of dispensing it over the water tube, would be to let the refrigerator remain unplugged for two hours of more. Of course, remember to empty the contents and find a place to store perishables so the food does not go bad while you are warming up the refrigerator.
3. Turn the Water Line Back On
After the water line is warmed up, turn the shut-off valve back ‘on’ and plug in the refrigerator. If the clog in the supply line is gone, so the water is no longer frozen, then you should be able to hear the water running to fill the ice mold. Ice cubes should start to be produced shortly after.
4. If All Else Fails, Replace the Water Filter
If the clog seems to be due to something other than frozen water backing up the ice maker production, then you might need to replace the water filter.
It’s not uncommon that an ice maker stops because the water filter itself is backed up. Find the water filter and replace it with the proper piece. Water filters for ice makers are typically inside the refrigerator. If water filters and tubes were in the freezer alongside the ice maker, the freezer temperature would cause the machine to stop producing ice entirely.
Alternative Ice Maker Repair Strategies
When your ice maker is still making ice, but the ice cubes are massive or too small, there are some easy fixes. In this case, it is likely not due to a clog, and will be fixed with some minor adjustments to the ice maker.
1. Remove the Ice Maker Cover
Focus directly on the ice maker to fix this issue. To start, take off the cover of the ice maker. The cover is the white plate at the front of the ice maker and it should not require much effort to remove.
2. Adjust the Level of Water Flow
The next step will likely require a flat head screwdriver. Underneath the cover, once it has been removed, use the screwdriver to screw towards the minus or plus symbol on the ice maker control panel. The minus symbol will decrease the amount of water used in ice production and the plus symbol will increase the amount of water. Depending on if you want smaller or bigger ice cubes, you will move the screw in either direction.
Other Reasons Your Ice Maker Stopped Working
There are some more specific issues that could be to blame for why your ice maker stopped making ice. If the above issues are not the cause, then it could be that the tap valve is bad.
1. The tap Valve is Bad
The tap valve is a small device which links the ice maker water supply line directly to the water tube. Replace the inlet valve and the tap valve if these appears to be the issue. For this more complicated cause of ice maker repair needs, you can find a repair kit online to do it yourself, or call for a professional to install a new inlet valve or tap valve.
2. There’s a Problem With the Solenoid
Another more complex issue has to do with the solenoid. The solenoid is attached to the water line. This piece of the ice maker can be found either at the back or very bottom of the refrigerator and connects to the ice maker from there. The solenoid is meant to receive power to fuel the ice maker’s production of ice.
When working with the solenoid to troubleshoot, unplug the refrigerator. Remove the sediment screen inside the solenoid and clean it with some water. Check that the piece, as a whole, is not defective. If there appear to be any issues, you can buy a replacement solenoid online.
Ice maker repair techniques like this should not take up too much time or money. If some problems persist, then you might need to call in for some extra help. Be careful working with the ice maker controls and while replacing or cleaning any of the fill tubes, inlet valves, or water tubes.
Your washing machine is without a doubt an essential home appliance, but it is also the one that poses the greatest threat for flooding your home. A single burst hose lets water flood out at the rate of six gallons per minute and can cause thousands of dollars of water damage to your home in just a few moments.
Even a small drip or a buildup of condensation under your washer can eventually turn into a serious problem by creating a perfect environment for mold to grow inside the walls or floor. However, there is one thing you can do to prevent a watery disaster and the expensive repair bill that comes with it: install a washing machine overflow pan.
What is a Washing Machine Pan?
A washing machine pan (also called drain pans for washers, or washing machine overflow pans) is a tray that slides under your washing machine and is designed to catch water from machine leaks, burst hoses, drips from where the hoses connect, overflows, or accidental spills. It will also protect your floors from condensation. You can purchase one at any home improvement store and there are a range of options available so you can easily find a washing machine overflow pan that will fit into your space and your budget.
What are Washing Machine Pans Made of?
Most washing machine pans are made from plastic or another composite material. However, these pans are vulnerable to cracks during installation and may develop leaks over time as well; some companies have begun offering washing machine pans made from stainless steel that are more durable but may be less DIY-friendly to install.
Where Should You Connect Your Washing Machine Pan?
Regardless of which type of overflow pan you choose, it must be connected to a drain pipe to allow any water caught in the pan to drain away from the area. All overflow pans will have a drain fitting on either the bottom or side that needs to be connected to your home’s waste drain system through a drain fitting and PVC pipe. For the DIY homeowner, most of the plastic washer pans available on the market will have a hole already drilled into the pan and may even include the necessary PVC fittings to make installing your washing machine pan quick and painless.
Should You Hire a Plumber to Install Your Washing Machine Pan?
If your home does not have an existing drain in the laundry room or you decide to purchase a metal washer pan, you may need to hire a plumber to handle the installation. There are also washing machine pans that do not require the drain to be connected to a floor drain; instead you can run a hose from the drain in the pan into a laundry tub or even through a wall to the outside. These are extremely useful in homes without existing floor drains or upstairs laundry rooms.
Washing Machine Pan Maintenance
Once you have installed your washing machine pan, some simple maintenance will ensure that your home stays protected from water damage in the event your washing machine leaks or overflows. Check the pan after every load of laundry for cracks or standing water in the pan or if you notice an unpleasant smell in your laundry room. This could be caused by water that is not draining properly and should be addressed as quickly as possible to minimize damages. You should also clean the drain pan with a household cleaner regularly to control odors and to ensure that the pan is in good repair.
Hopefully, you can now see why installing a washing machine pan is so important. It is a fairly inexpensive, simple way of protecting your home from water damage that could ruin your home and your wallet in a matter of minutes.
You’re probably asking yourself, “What is a shower diverter valve anyway and does mine need to be replaced?” This article will explain exactly what a diverter valve does and list the different types of valves available. It will then show you how to replace a shower diverter valve.
What is a Shower Diverter?
Generally, when you turn on the water in the shower, it comes out of the tub spout and you have to pull a little handle to make the water come out of the shower head. The part inside the spout that does that is a shower diverter valve. This is the most common type of diverter valve and is commonly called a 3-valve diverter or tub diverter valve. These types of valves can also be a 2-valve or tee diverter (the difference will be explained later). Another type of shower diverter is located on the shower head itself and is usually seen in showers with detachable, hand-held shower heads or in showers with multiple shower heads.
What Does a Shower Diverter Valve Do?
Simply put, a shower diverter valve directs the water flow from the tub spout up into the shower head and eliminates the need for a separate shower stall. Next, we’ll briefly explain the different types of valves.
Types of Shower Diverter Valves
There are many types of shower diverter valves. Here are some of the most common.
3- Valve Shower Diverter:
This type of valve is located between the hot and cold taps on the faucet and turning the handle allows water to be diverted to the shower head after the hot and cold water has mixed to the desired temperature.
2- Valve Shower Diverter:
This type has two L-shaped valves and like the 3-valve diverter, it directs the water flow to the shower head once the desired temperature is set. This type of valve can have either a single dial for adjusting the water temperature or can be installed between the taps on a 2-tap faucet.
Tee Shower Diverter:
This type of valve has only a single valve and is located inside the tub spout itself. Once the water temperature is set, you pull a handle on top of the spout to direct the water flow to the shower head. It is probably the most common type of shower diverter valve and is the easiest to replace because the valve is not integrated with the plumbing pipes inside the walls like the previous types of valves.
Shower head Diverter Valve:
This type of diverter valve is usually only seen in installations with multiple shower heads or with shower heads that feature a detachable handheld shower head. Rather than directing water from the spout to the shower head, these valves direct water between two or more shower heads.
How to Replace a Shower Diverter Valve
If you’ve tried turning on your shower and the water isn’t coming out of the shower head — or, if it is coming out of the tub spout and the shower head at the same time — it is likely that your diverter valve needs to be replaced.
This section will take you through the steps to repair a defective valve. Although the process is similar for all the different types of valves, your shower setup may be slightly different from what is described. Also, keep in mind that because both the 3-valve and 2-valve types are integrated with the plumbing pipes inside your walls, you may need to call a plumber to repair or replace the valve.
How to Replace a 3-valve or 2-valve Shower Diverter Valve
For showers with either a 3-valve or 2-valve diverter, you’ll need to remove the handle that controls the valve first. Pop off the plastic cover and unscrew the handle. Next, remove the sleeve over the diverter. Using a socket wrench, remove the diverter valve. Take it with you to a plumbing supply store to ensure you get the correct replacement valve and simply reverse the steps to install the new valve.
How to Replace a Shower Diverter Valve Located Inside the Tub Spigot
For showers with a diverter valve located inside the tub spigot, you’ll need to replace the entire spigot. Find the set screw on the underside of the spigot and unscrew it. You should then be able to unscrew the spigot from the wall. If there is no set screw, your spigot will have a fitting inside that screws onto the copper pipe that comes out of the wall. Carefully unscrew the spigot to avoid damaging the fitting on the pipe. Regardless of which type of spigot you have, you should clean the pipe or fitting before installing the new spigot. This will ensure that the new spigot fits securely and will prevent leaks.
How to Replace a Shower Head Diverter Valve
For showers with a shower head diverter, you can simply unscrew the diverter valve from the pipe and install a new one in its place. Installing a new shower head diverter valve is fairly simple also. Just remove the old shower head and attach the new valve onto the pipe. Replace the original shower head and attach the handheld shower head, making sure that both attached securely and that there are no leaks.
We’ve shown you how simple a shower diverter valve repair can be and that with a little bit of time and money, you can be sure your shower will be warm and relaxing and will stay that way for years to come.
For most of us, doing the laundry is about as exciting as watching paint dry, but discovering that your washing machine isn’t draining as it should can turn a dreaded chore into a laundry nightmare. Thankfully, the most common causes of a washing machine not draining can easily be fixed with a little bit of knowledge and a few simple tools.
In this article, we’ll explain some of the common culprits that may be causing your washing machine to stop draining and give you some quick tips for how to drain a washing machine and save yourself the headache and expense of a costly plumbing repair.
Washer Not Draining? Check The Owner’s Manual First
Before you start dismantling your washing machine, make sure to check your owner’s manual for information about your warranty. Some manufacturers will not honor the warranty if you attempt to repair the machine yourself. The troubleshooting section of your manual should also have some useful information that may help you identify the cause of the problem and suggest ways to repair it.
How to Drain a Washing Machine
Here’s a step-by-step troubleshooting guide that will show you how to identify and repair the most common problems that can cause your washing machine to stop draining.
How to Drain a Washing Machine (Step 1): Remove Standing Water
Try to remove as much water as you possibly can before unhooking any hoses. It will make the job much easier when the water’s out of the way. Once you’ve gotten as much of the water out as you can, unplug the machine and remove the front panel
How to Drain a Washing Machine (Step 2): Check for Clogs
The most common cause of a washer not draining is a clogged water pump or drain hose. It is not unusual for small clothing items like socks or rags to get pulled into the machine’s drain system and block the hose going into the pump. They may even clog the water pump as well.
Remove the drain hose from the back of the washer and run a steady stream of water through it (a garden hose works great for this). If there is something blocking the hose, this should flush the clog out. When you replace the hose on your machine, make sure that it is not bent or kinked, as this will slow the drain time and make it easier for small items to get caught in the hose again.
How to Drain a Washing Machine (Step 3): Run the Spin Cycle
Reconnect the drain hose and try to run the machine’s drain/spin cycle. If the water drains out, you’ve found the problem and you’re done. If not, the next step is to locate the pump and clean it.
The pump will be a circular, plastic object near the drain hose. Remove the top to get access to the screen inside. This screen acts as a filter to catch lint or small pieces of clothing or debris that could clog the pump and cause the washing machine to stop draining. Run clean water through the screen until it is completely clean and then, using your finger, make sure the pump’s fan spins freely.
How to Drain a Washing Machine (Step 4): Run the Spin Cycle Again and Determine if You Need a New Pump
Re-install the pump and try to run the machine’s drain/spin cycle again. If the water still does not drain or the pump’s fan isn’t spinning, then most likely you will need to replace the pump. You should be able to get a new pump at any plumbing supply store and it is a fairly simple repair.
Once the new pump is installed and the hoses reconnected, run the drain/spin cycle one more time to ensure that it is working correctly and to flush out any dirt that may have been stuck in the hose.
Regular Maintenance to Keep Your Washing Machine Draining Effectively
Once your washer is working properly again, you can avoid future problems with your washing machine not draining by cleaning the drain hose and pump filter regularly. A clogged pump can burn out the washing machine’s motor if it is not fixed quickly, and that is a machine repair that can end up costing you hundreds of dollars.
Discovering that your washing machine isn’t draining can be a nightmare, but hopefully the tips provided above can get you back to laundry day with minimal hassle and expense. You might also look into a home warranty that will cover you in case your washer breaks.
It can be confusing if your microwave stopped working but still has power. Occasionally, microwaves will appear to function normally without actually heating your food. Often this means that when you start the microwave, the lights will turn on, but you won’t hear the regular noise of a microwave. There are a couple reasons why this might happen. But, be very cautious when it comes to repairing your microwave.
Safety First If Your Microwave Is Not Heating
Microwaves are no joke. You could be seriously injured (or worse) by the amount of high voltage electricity that a microwave contains. It’s common to believe that you’ll be safe by simply unplugging the microwave. However, that is not the case. Even after the microwave is unplugged you can receive a lethal electric shock. The following information might help you understand why your microwave isn’t heating. But, you should call a licensed technician to check for issues and make any repairs. Even opening the microwave’s covering can be extremely dangerous.
The magnetron generates the heat in a microwave. A faulty magnetron can lead to a blown fuse, which may cause further issues to other parts. The magnetron needs to be tested to really know if it is or is not functioning. The following steps help to prevent an electric shock, but can still be dangerous if you’re not a professional.
Unplug the microwave
Remove the covering on the back of the microwave
Discharge the high voltage capacitor
A multimeter can test the magnetron. Disconnect the magnetron’s wires from their current position in the microwave and connect them to the multimeter. If the multimeter isn’t indicating any continuity from the magnetron, then the magnetron should be replaced by a licensed technician. If the magnetron is showing the regular two to three ohms of resistance, then you should consider the following possibilities.
High Voltage Diode
The high voltage diode gives power to the magnetron. If it isn’t functioning properly, the microwave may not be heating. Sometimes a high voltage diode looks visibly burnt out. If that is the case, it may be safe to assume that the diode needs to be replaced. If you can’t draw a conclusion based on the diode’s appearance, a multimeter can test the high voltage diode. Again, the following steps will help avoid an electric shock, but aren’t advised for anyone besides a technician.
Unplug the microwave
Remove the covering on the back of the microwave
Discharge the high voltage capacitor
The multimeter should indicate that one direction of the diode has high resistance and that the other has low resistance. If you see different results, the diode should be replaced.
Microwaves are programmed to only heat when the doors are closed. Door switches indicate when the doors are open or closed. Most microwaves have a few door switches. Before checking the switches a technician will usually:
Unplug the microwave
Remove the covering on the back of the microwave
Discharge the high voltage capacitor
A multimeter is then used to check each door switch for continuity. The door switch actuator button must be pressed while using the multimeter. You can also check on the door hooks which activate the door switches. The hooks could be the problem.
The thermoprotector controls how much heat the microwave emits. If the heat rises above a certain level, the thermoprotector will turn the power off. If the thermoprotector isn’t working, the technician may need to reset a tripped fuse.
Consult a Professional If Your Microwave is Not Heating
These are the most common reasons why a microwave won’t heat when it has power. Once again, rely on a licensed technician to make any replacements or repairs concerning your microwave.
Replacing a garbage disposal can seem like a daunting task, but with the right knowledge, tools, and supplies, you may be able to do it on your own. In this article, we’ll teach you how to replace your garbage disposal.
Gather Tools and Supplies to Replace Your Garbage Disposal
This project doesn’t require too many crazy supplies. Here’s what you need.
Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
Plumber putty or silicone sealant
Plastic wire nuts
Garbage disposal unit
Regular and needle nose pliers
How to Remove a Garbage Disposal
Learning how to replace a garbage disposal can be pretty easy. But, make sure you really need a new system before jumping in. If you just have a jammed disposal, you can look or feel around in the drain for a blockage. Sometimes pulling out a lodged item will fix your disposal fast. But, your disposal unit may be cracked, leaking, painfully loud, or completely dead. In that case, a new unit is your best bet.
Turn Off Power
Before you take out the old unit, you’ll want to turn off the power to the garbage disposal. Disposal units are an electrical appliance. So, if you keep the power on while removing or installing the disposer, you could get shocked. Plus, it might give you greater peace of mind, especially if you’re concerned about keeping your fingers intact.
Go to your home’s breaker and turn off the switch sourcing the power to your garbage disposal. Try turning on the disposal to make sure that you flipped the right switch. Some disposals might be plugged into an outlet under the sink. In that case, just unplug it.
Get to Know Your Disposal Unit
When you look under your sink, you’ll mostly see pipes. The garbage disposal unit is the large object connected directly to the bottom of the sink, and it doesn’t look like a pipe. Most kitchens have a double sink. Beneath, there is a pipe connected to the bottom of one sink and the garbage disposal connected to the other. A discharge tube usually connects the garbage disposal to the pipe coming from the other sink.
Pay attention to the make and model of the current garbage disposal. This will help you when buying the new unit.
Disconnect the Discharge Tube
The pipe coming out of the side of the unit is a discharge tube. Unscrew the tube’s connection. Then, tug it free.
If your disposer is older, it might be connected to the dishwasher with another tube. Disconnect that the same way.
Disconnect the Unit from the Mounting Ring
The mounting ring is directly connected to the sink. As soon as you disconnect the mounting ring from the unit, the large, heavy unit will drop to the ground. It’s smart to stack some items beneath the unit to keep it from causing damage when it falls. Once you’ve created a stack beneath the unit, twist the metal ring until you feel it release.
Disconnect the Power Supply
Turning the unit over, you’ll see a plate covering. Remove this and you’ll see the electrical wires. Remove the copper grounding wire from its place around the green screw. Remove the plastic wire nuts to disconnect the power supply.
How to Replace the Mounting Unit on Your Garbage Disposal
If there aren’t any leaks in your current mounting unit, then you can leave it as it is. If your new disposal unit won’t fit with the mounting unit or if your mounting unit is leaking, put in a new one.
Remove Mounting Unit
Take off the rubber ring and the bottom of the mounting assembly. Next, you can use a screwdriver to loosen the nut. The nut has lugs coming off it that the screwdriver can fit into. The screwdriver will add leverage and help loosen this. The mounting ring should come off easily after that.
Remove Sink Flange
Now come out from under the sink and take out the sink flange. The flange is the metal piece around the drain opening. You might need to go back under the sink and push on the bottom of the flange to loosen it. You might need to use a putty knife to remove old putty from beneath the flange.
Install New Sink Flange
Pat the sink drain dry. Put new plumber putty or silicone sealant on the bottom edge of the flange. This will act as an adhesive connecting the flange to the sink drain. Push the bottom of the flange through drain and press the flange’s edge to the sink. Press down on the flange for a few moments to help the putty set.
It will take 10-20 minutes for the putty to fully set. It’s best to weigh down the flange for that time. Place something heavy inside the sink, on top of the flange. The old disposal unit can act as a weight.
Add the Mounting to the Flange
Place a rubber gasket around the sink flange. (We’re back under the sink now.) Then, add a second flange. Follow that with the mounting ring. You’ll need to hold all of the mounting assembly pieces while placing and tightening screws through the mounting ring and backup flange. You want each screw to be equally tight.
How to Install New Disposal Unit
If you just took out your old unit, this should be easy. For the actual garbage disposal replacement, just follow the same steps, but in reverse.
Connect to Power Source
Make sure that the power is turned off still.
You’ll see wires of different colors when you open up the plate on the bottom of the unit. Place the white wires together and secure them with plastic wire nuts. Any other wires of the same color should be placed together and attached with wire nuts.
Then, place the copper grounding wire around the green screw. Cover the electrical area with the plate again.
Connect the Discharge Tube
Slip the tube into the opening on the side of the disposal unit. Then, secure it by tightening nuts or screws around the tube to the unit.
If the discharge tube is too long for the new disposer, you can fix that easily. Measure the tube to decide how long it should be. Then, use a hacksaw to cut the tube to the length you want.
If the tube is too short, you’ll have to buy a new one.
Connect New Disposer with the Mounting Unit
Lift the unit and insert it into the mounting ring. Hook a screwdriver through the mounting tabs and turn the unit until it is secure.
Check for Leaks
Turn on the sink and let the water run for about 30 seconds. As the water is running, feel around the connecting points of the unit for any leaks.
If there are leaks, turn off the water and thoroughly dry the area. Then, you can use thread seal tape or Teflon pipe joint compound on the leaky area.
Check for Disposal Function
Now add power to your disposal by turning the power on at your breaker. Hit the switch to the disposal and see if it’s working.
If the sound of your disposal seems horribly wrong, you may need to reach out to a professional plumber.
Learning how to replace garbage disposal can mean a quieter, nicer-smelling, more-efficient kitchen. Plus, it’s a project that you can tackle on your own. So, break out your tools and get started.